From "green blur" to ecofashion: Fashioning an eco-lexicon

Language is created or co-opted to map and navigate the new territory of developing ideas. Ecofashion is part of that mapping: encompassing terms, adopting, and adapting many theories. The signpost for the ecofashion movement was the launch of Esprit Ecollection in November 1991. Over the last fifteen years the fashion industry, educational institutions, media, and consequently consumers have become more aware of the environmental and ecological movement. Environmental, ecological, green, sustainable, ethical, recycled, organic, and inclusive (universal) fashion and fashion design, as terms, coexist, cross-fertilize, and are readily confused. The lack of discussion of the phenomenon and debate has fueled misunderstandings, and terminology (especially in the general and fashion media) is often misused. Fashion as a design discipline has been late to investigate the theoretical greening of the design production loop, lagging behind industrial design and architecture, unlike consumer activist campaigns where fashion has been targeted more than other disciplines. The situation demonstrates the tension in fashion between theoretical and practical and the immediate social, economic, and environmental impact of decisions. To go forward, we need to be proactive and visionary in ideas and specifically language. In essence, we need to know the clear meaning of the language we use. Terminology provides definition, clarity, and boundaries which may be fought or celebrated. A lexicon is required. It is timely to consider language: its past, current, and future meanings. The article will discuss the terms used and their concept, history, and reality in the fashion industry and media. It will situate fashion within design areas addressing environmental, sustainable, ethical, and inclusive (universal) design, whilst identifying new and particular emerging terms.