Studies of sand: Iron scapes in jewellery and enamel

Background: In the context of contemporary jewellery practice, ferrous alloys such as iron, mild steel and stainless steel offer applicable material working properties and classless value structures for jewellery objects that engage with current art practices. The unique working properties have been exemplified by leading Australian artists such as Mari Funaki (1950-2010), Margaret West (1936-2014) and Sue Lorraine. It is within this field of practice that I situate this research, with the aim to connect with and build on material-based research within a contemporary jewellery context. Contribution: This series of nine wearable brooches explores the materiality of iron. The works respond to the landscape of Kariotahi beach near New Zealand’s only steel mill. The black iron sand from Kariotahi beach was formed 2.5 million years ago from rock deposited on the coastline by volcanic activity in the Taranaki region. The black sand contains mainly iron sand (titanomagnetite) and lime-soda feldspars and is used to make steel. In this work I experimented with samples of the black iron sand to depict the unique Kariotahi landscape by drawing with the sand and firing it into vitreous black enamel over mild steel. This research extends and contributes to the use of steel in contemporary jewellery by studying the origins of the material and valuing the landscape from which the material is extracted. Significance: This body of work was selected for exhibition by Prof Stephen Bottomley (Head of School of Jewellery), Elizabeth Turrell (Visiting Professor, Birmingham City University) and Dr Melanie Kaliwoda (Museum Curator, Museum Reich der Kristalle, Germany). The exhibition was presented at Museum Reich der Kristalle during the Inhorgenta and Schmuck 'Munich Jewellery Week' in Germany, the Vittoria Street Gallery, Birmingham (UK), AVIA Shanghai and in Beijing during the International Symposium of Jewellery design in Higher Education.